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Posted

Could anyone tell me if the Mk1 & Mk11 internal door catch mechanisms are the same?

 

I have a problem with my front passenger door occasionally not fully closing, it shuts as normal then bounces open back to the "second stage" of the catch so that it is slightly ajar.

 

If I shut it 4 or 5 (or more!) times it eventually closes properly and then behaves itself for a few days before doing the same again.

Posted
iirc it could be that the door catch is worn,im sure you can fiddle with it and try to adjust it and generally grease it up.
Posted

Yes, could be, the reason I was asking though is that ive just been given a mk11 door catch, brand new for free!

 

I was just looking to see if they were the same before I started taking the door card off.

 

I may be onto something else now though, just been looking at TIS and discovered a service bulletin for early mk1's where the mechanism is prone to moisture ingress and freezing. Ive not really noted whether it was particularly cold on the days this has happened, but im waiting for a bit of frost to see if it happens again.

 

Apparently you blow it out with a compressor and give it a good lube up! There is also a modified cover for the mechanism available......We will wait and see

 

Cheers Gregers.

Posted
A quick look on eCAT reveals that the locks have diferent numbers from Mk1 to Mk2. Mk1's have a 99VW prefix (L/H: 99VW-A21812-BA and R/H: 99VW-A21813-BA), whereas the Mk2's are prefik YM21-. The rest of the numbers are the same. It also lists Mk2's as having different locks depending on whether it is left or right hand drive. (i.e. there are 2 locks listed for each side -AA = LHD, -BA = RHD) What the physical differences are is anyones guess - might be something simple like the cable to the internal pull is a different length. As a lock mechanism is
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Ive now fitted the door latch mechanism and for anyone thats interested its cured the door opening by itself problem.

 

The old mechanism is quite heavily corroded on all metallic internal parts so I assume that was causing the problem.

 

This was a Mk2 mechanism and was identical to the mk1 with one exception. There is a plastic socket on the mechanism that accepts the pawl on the back of the actual door lock it is slotted on the mk1 but round on the mk2 so as a result the front N/S door no longer operates off the key!

The pawl on the back of the lock simply turns in the round socket. You cant change this component as the mechanism is a sealed unit but I could very easily of modified the new unit.

 

I didnt do this because A) It was raining :rolleyes: It works fine off the remote, and C) Im a lazy sod

 

Anyhow the door no longer pops open and Im happy!

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